Delhi for the first time: is it safe, where to stay and what it really costs

Delhi is a sensory assault. There is no gentler way to put it. For two women arriving in India for the first time, it felt less like a city and more like a high-speed collision of noise, dust, and human density. We spent our first three days wondering if we had made a massive mistake, and the next three weeks realising that Delhi is actually one of the most functional cities in the country if you know how to navigate the grit.

We did not stay in five-star hotels or shielded resorts. We lived in normal apartments in residential blocks, shopped at local markets, and spent a significant amount of time sitting on the floor of the Delhi Metro. We arrived with the usual first-timer nerves, half-expecting to be scammed at every corner, and left with a genuine appreciation for the city’s stubborn complexity.

If you are looking for a spiritual awakening or a polished tourist experience, you are in the wrong place. Delhi is about survival, cheap street food, incredible history, and learning to stand your ground in a crowd. This is what we learned from our time on the ground.

Is Delhi safe for women?

This is the first thing everyone asks us, and the answer is layered. We never felt physically threatened, but we were constantly stared at. As two women travelling together, you will be a novelty in many parts of the city. You need a thick skin and a firm "no."

Safety in Delhi is largely about geography and timing. We felt perfectly fine walking around South Delhi at 9:00 PM, but we wouldn't dream of doing the same in the back alleys of Old Delhi or near the main railway station.

• Stick to the metro. It has a dedicated ladies' coach at one end of every train, which is a sanctuary during rush hour.
• Dress conservatively. You don't need to wear a sari, but covering your shoulders and legs stops 50% of the unwanted attention.
• Use Uber or Ola rather than flagging rickshaws on the street at night. The GPS tracking adds a layer of accountability.
• Ignore the "friendly" men who approach you near tourist sites. They are almost always trying to lead you to a specific shop or travel agency.

Our take: Delhi isn't inherently dangerous, but it is exhausting. The "safety" issue is often more about mental fatigue from being constantly approached.

How many days do you need in Delhi?

Most people use Delhi as a landing pad and flee within 48 hours. We think that is a mistake. You need at least four to five days to actually see the city without having a total breakdown.

• Day 1: Arrival and recovery. Stay in a quiet neighbourhood and just find a decent cafe.
• Day 2: Old Delhi. The Red Fort, Jama Masjid, and the chaos of Chandni Chowk.
• Day 3: New Delhi and the monuments. Humayun’s Tomb, Lodi Gardens, and India Gate.
• Day 4: South Delhi. Qutub Minar and the boutiques of Shahpur Jat or Hauz Khas Village.
• Day 5: A buffer day for the inevitable "Delhi Belly" or a slow afternoon in a park.

If you try to do Old and New Delhi in one day, you will end up hating the city. The traffic alone will eat half your afternoon.

New Delhi vs Old Delhi: What is the difference?

The names are used interchangeably by tourists, but they are two distinct worlds. Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad) is the walled city built by the Mughals. It is narrow, crumbling, incredibly crowded, and smells of spices and sewage. It is where you find the best street food, but it is also where you will feel the most claustrophobic.

New Delhi was built by the British. It has wide, tree-lined boulevards, massive roundabouts, and sprawling bungalows. It feels like a different country. When people talk about the "chaos of India," they are usually thinking of Old Delhi. When they talk about the "grandeur of the capital," they are in New Delhi.

We spent most of our time in the southern suburbs, which are technically part of the National Capital Region but feel even more removed from the chaos. If you are nervous about your first trip, stay in the south and commute in.

Where should you stay in Delhi?

Where you stay will dictate whether you enjoy your trip or spend it in a state of high-alert anxiety.

• Paharganj: This is the backpacker ghetto right next to the New Delhi Railway Station. It is cheap, filthy, and loud. We stayed here for one night and wouldn't do it again. It is useful for early trains, but the constant harassment from touts is soul-destroying.
• Hauz Khas Village: A trendy, upscale area with views over a medieval tank and park. It is full of bars and boutiques. It is great for socialising, but it can be noisy at night.
• South Delhi (Greater Kailash, Gulmohar Park, Defence Colony): This is where we preferred to be. It is residential, leafy, and has actual pavements. It is more expensive, but your sanity is worth the extra few pounds.
• Connaught Place (CP): The central hub. It is convenient for transport but very corporate and full of people trying to sell you carpets.

Our take: Avoid Paharganj unless you are on a microscopic budget. Spend the extra money for a guesthouse in South Delhi.

How much does Delhi cost per day?

Delhi is as cheap or as expensive as you want it to be. Because we were staying in local apartments and eating like locals, our costs were very low.

• Dorm bed in a hostel: ₹600 - ₹900 (£6 - £9)
• Mid-range guesthouse room: ₹2,500 - ₹4,000 (£24 - £38)
• Street food meal (parathas or chaat): ₹50 - ₹150 (50p - £1.50)
• Dinner in a "nice" restaurant: ₹800 - ₹1,500 (£8 - £14)
• Delhi Metro ride: ₹10 - ₹60 (10p - 60p)
• Auto-rickshaw (3km): ₹50 - ₹100 (50p - £1)
• Liter of bottled water: ₹20 (20p)

Expect to spend around ₹2,500 (£24) per person, per day, for a comfortable mid-range experience. You can easily double that if you drink alcohol, which is heavily taxed and relatively expensive in Delhi.

How do you get around Delhi?

Do not bother with buses; they are confusing and overcrowded.

The Delhi Metro is world-class. It is clean, air-conditioned, and efficient. We used it for 90% of our travel. Buy a "Smart Card" at any station for ₹200 (which includes ₹150 credit) so you don't have to queue for tokens every time.

For short distances, use auto-rickshaws. Always negotiate the price before you get in, or better yet, check the price on the Uber app first and tell the driver you will pay that. If they refuse, walk away. There are ten more behind them.

For longer trips or at night, use Uber. It is incredibly cheap compared to the UK, and it saves you the hassle of haggling. Just be aware that Delhi traffic is some of the worst in the world. A 5km trip can easily take 45 minutes during peak hours.

When is the best time to visit? (And the air quality issue)

Do not ignore the weather. If you go in May or June, you will be dealing with 45°C heat that feels like standing behind a jet engine. You won't want to see any monuments; you will just want to sit in front of an AC unit.

The best time to visit is October to March. However, there is a massive caveat: the air quality. From late October through December, the air in Delhi becomes toxic due to crop burning in neighbouring states and stagnant winter air. The AQI (Air Quality Index) often hits 400 or 500. We were there in November and had to wear N95 masks just to walk to the shops. Our eyes stung, and we had constant coughs.

If you have asthma or respiratory issues, avoid Delhi in November and December entirely.

Common scams and what to avoid

The scams in Delhi are legendary, but they are almost all psychological rather than physical.

The New Delhi Railway Station scam is the most common. As you approach the station, men will tell you the entrance is closed, or the "tourist office" has moved, or your ticket needs to be "validated" at a different building. They will then take you to a private travel agency that will try to sell you a hugely overpriced tour of Rajasthan. The station is never closed. Ignore everyone and walk straight to the platform.

Another common one is the "poop on the shoe" scam. Someone will point out that you have stepped in something disgusting (which they likely squirted on you) and then a "helpful" shoe shiner will appear to clean it for an exorbitant fee.

Then there is the "official" tourist information centre. Many shops in Connaught Place have signs saying they are the government-approved office. Most are not. If they start trying to sell you a driver for a week, walk out.

Can you do a Taj Mahal day trip from Delhi?

Yes, but it is a long day. The Taj Mahal is in Agra, which is about 200km away.

The best way to do it is the Gatimaan Express. It leaves Hazrat Nizamuddin station at 8:10 AM and gets to Agra in 100 minutes. It is clean, serves breakfast, and is much faster than driving. You can spend the day seeing the Taj and the Agra Fort, then take the evening train back.

Do not take a bus. The traffic on the Yamuna Expressway can be unpredictable, and you will spend six hours of your day staring at the back of a truck.

What we would do again and what we would skip

Do again:

• Spending a whole afternoon in Lodi Gardens. It is free, full of ancient tombs, and it is the only place in the city where you can actually hear yourself think.
• Eating at the Andhra Pradesh Bhavan canteen. It is basic, communal, and serves the best thali in the city for a few pounds.
• Taking the Metro to Chandni Chowk just for the madness of it.

Skip:

• The Red Fort. The outside is magnificent, but the inside is largely empty and underwhelming compared to the forts in Rajasthan or Humayun’s Tomb.
• Walking through Paharganj. It’s just not worth the stress.
• Trying to "see everything." Delhi is better experienced in small doses.

We managed to stay in Delhi for several weeks without burning through our savings because we don't pay for hotels. By taking care of people's homes and pets while they are away, we get to live in local neighbourhoods for free. If you want to know how we do it, you can check out our free house sitting guide which explains how to get started.

Delhi is a difficult city to love, but it is an impossible city to forget. It requires patience, a lot of hand sanitiser, and the ability to laugh when things inevitably go wrong. Don't let the first-time nerves stop you; just make sure you have a quiet place to retreat to when the noise gets too much.