Delhi

Delhi asks a lot of you and gives more back. Layers of Mughal, colonial and modern India within a few kilometres, and food that ruins you for Indian restaurants at home.

Best time to go

October to March. Avoid May and June heat and the worst of the winter smog in November.

What it costs

£30–£50 a day for two with comfortable private rooms.

What we'd actually do

Old Delhi by rickshaw and on foot

Jama Masjid, then the spice market at Khari Baoli. Go with a guide the first time — it doubles what you notice.

Humayun's Tomb at golden hour

Calmer and, we would argue, more beautiful than the tourist headline sites.

Eat a proper food walk

Chandni Chowk parathas, kebabs at Nizamuddin, chaat wherever the queue is longest.

Where to stay

• Hauz Khas — village bars, the lake ruins, good cafés
• South Delhi (Saket, GK) — quiet, residential, safest for first-timers
• Paharganj only if you want the backpacker experience

Things we wish we'd known

• The metro is clean, cheap and air-conditioned — use it more than taxis.
• Prepaid taxis or Uber from the airport, never a street offer.
• Carry a scarf: useful for temples, sun and air quality alike.