Koh Samui

Samui gets written off as resort territory. Stay on the quieter south and west coasts and it becomes something else: waterfalls, empty beaches at 7am, and a big expat community that needs their houses and pets looked after.

Best time to go

February to April and July to August. October to December is the wettest.

What it costs

£55–£80 a day for two, less outside Chaweng and Bophut.

What we'd actually do

Ang Thong Marine Park

Forty-two islands and the viewpoint climb that is worth every step. Pick a small-boat operator.

Secret Buddha Garden

Up a steep road in the interior. Take a 4x4 or a taxi, not a scooter, and go in the morning light.

Fisherman's Village on Friday

Bophut's night market — busy, but the seafood grills are genuinely good.

Where to stay

• Lamai — beach life without Chaweng's noise
• Maenam — long quiet beach, best value, great for months at a time
• Taling Ngam — the sleepy south-west for sunsets

Things we wish we'd known

• Villa sits on Samui are common between November and March while owners fly home.
• Rent a car rather than a scooter if you plan to explore the ring road in rain.