Dubai

Dubai was home before it was a destination for us. It can be one of the most expensive cities on earth or one of the best value, depending entirely on how you use it.

Best time to go

November to March. July and August are survivable only indoors.

What it costs

£70–£120 a day for two, or far less on a house sit with a car.

What we'd actually do

Old Dubai first

Take an abra across the creek for one dirham, walk the gold and spice souks, then the Al Fahidi historical district.

Desert, but the right way

Skip the dune-bashing convoys. Book a small conservation-reserve tour at dawn instead.

Beach clubs on weekdays

Weekday day passes often include your spend back in food and drink. Weekend prices double.

Where to stay

• JBR and Marina — walkable, beachy, best for a first trip
• Deira and Al Fahidi — old Dubai, cheaper, far more interesting
• Al Barsha and JVC — where residents actually live and where most sits are

Things we wish we'd known

• House and pet sitting in Dubai is enormous — the expat population travels constantly and rarely puts dogs in kennels.
• Alcohol is expensive; brunches and happy hours are how residents deal with it.
• The metro covers more than visitors expect. Use it along Sheikh Zayed Road.